Rode past the military cemetery east of Bovec last week. During he First World War the whole areas, despite its tranquil beauty, was the location for the determined and bloody Battles of the Isonzo which were fought between Austro-Hungarian forces and the Italian Army between June 1915 and November 1917.Over 600 soldiers are buried in the cemetery, the graves cover the entire cemetery area but only the south quarter has grave markers. It is a somber place giving shade in the midday sun and a constant reminder of the historic actions that took place all over the European frontiers – now I simply ride from county to country with no restraints or checks.
View from the bunker
The deeper I go into Slovenia, Croatia and Hungary the more old cold war bunkers and military outposts I find. Wish I had more time to explore some of the remnants which are both fascinating but also exceptionally “creepy”. Without exception they seem to be in excellent preserved condition with little signs of vandalism and just succumbing to the ravages of nature with tree roots growing through feet think concrete walls enhancing the dereliction. I could spend weeks in these areas alone, just meandering through the countryside and borders, looking at these historic sites but sadly time in limited – and the west is calling me again.
Jungfernsprung
The story goes that a young maiden ventured into the Forest of Dahn to pick berries when a man with ‘dishonourable intent’ thought to be Hans Trap from Berwartstein Castle chased her down to take her ‘innocence’. The young maiden gathered up her skirts and took to flight but in her panic she did not watch where she was going and found herself at a cliff edge – without stopping to think, the young maiden fell over the cliff and because her skirts ballooned out she floated down gently and survived the leap unhurt – ever since at the spot of her leap a spring has flowed. All I know is that stumbling across this set of waterfalls on a bimble around the Austrian and German border was amazing.
New friends
Riding the mountain roads near Cerknica I came across another GS rider with 500,000km on his bike – through broken French and German we agreed that these are the best bikes in the world… and after coffee and lunch and exchange of stories and tribulations we clattered off in our respective directions leaving just a trail of dust behind… 
Hard to think its July
I have been able to ride some incredible eastern European mountain roads this week despite the torrential rain which is still setting as snow at altitude. Dressing for the weather can be a challenge as its often 28 degrees plus at valley floor level but yesterday dropped to just 2.5 degrees at altitude – managed to get everything dry last night so tomorrow will be another new adventure.