Latvia – Where is everyone?

‘Google’ is a dangerous thing – you really do not want to read the reports of driving habits and accident rates if you are setting off for the Baltic States… Be a “bit more Gary” and just take it all with a pinch of salt. Latvia is my new most favourite State, the main roads are well maintained and empty, other drivers give you room and I learnt a long time ago, as I plod along on the XT660, that if you just signal right and let them pass you they will generally always thank you. Turn off the tarmac and you are met with well graded gravel and hard pack and turn off again and you will get sand. Now I hate riding in sand, the adage of power, power, power (I just hear Clarkson when I say that) works well but falling over solo with 230kg of Yamaha and luggage never appeals. Latvia is a hidden gem, think rural French roads with a Swedish backdrop and there you have it. Give Latvia a chance – I loved it.

Latvia - Where is everyone?

Death-knell for a town

The beginning of the end for Visaginas started at 01:23 on Saturday 26th April 1986. The death-knell for this town, which was created from virtually nothing by the eastern European USSR economy started with the destruction of reactor 4 at the Chernobyl RBMK Reactor. Originally Visaginas was simply a small collection of houses with a population of a few hundred, that grew to support the construction and operational teams that run Chernobyl’s sister plant at Ignalina. Swollen at its peak to almost 34,000 individuals, the four lane roads, the infrastructure and the support services needed to support working families and the 5000 individuals involved in the operation of the RBMK are now decaying. The present from the power plant to the town in 1975 was a giant granite boulder which symbolised the towns birth on 10th August. Wandering around the abandoned grounds, riding the half closed and empty roads and watching children play in abandoned playgrounds amongst the soviet style concrete block housing was a surreal moment.

The town that died

Narva Calling

With a few weeks spare and eastern Europe still holding my heart, I headed off to Narva and the Baltic states. The roads here can be challenging, with little tarmac of the few main highways and a combination of hardpack and loose gravel and sand… oh how I hate sand. The XT660Z is an ideal bike for these trips, lightweight, long legged, a proven design, with a long 300+ mile range. I loaded up my Metal Mule panniers, shoved a few clothes into my dry bag and set off…